Final Video

My Final Video:

I imagine that this is the sort of video which would be picked up & spread through the internet through fashion websites, fashion bloggers, youtube etc.

Editing

From the research I did, I knew that in making a fashion film the music would be a huge part in the success of the final video.

I took me hours of searching to find the right track.  I knew I wanted an instrumental piece, and something that was quite fast paced, to add a different dynamic.  It's very difficult trying to pick a piece from thin air almost, and knowing where to start!  

Music from the 1930s would have been ideal, however I felt that it was a bit too 'swing' for the style of video I wanted - Bing Crosby, Benny Goodman & Glenn Miller being big names of the time.  

In the end, I started looking through film soundtracks.

The 2 songs it came down to were:

- Emancipation by The Chamber Orchestra Of London (Music from the TV series Downton Abbey)

This felt a bit too much like a TV theme tune, and a bit too slow at times.

- Briony by Dario Marianelli  (Music from the film Atonement)

At first I still had a few reservations with this track, but really needed to decide so I could make a start with the editing.  It fits in well with the project, as the film is actually set in the 1930s which is the time which the Tectons were made & the era that I have based my clothing on.  

In the end I think it worked quite well, and I used the clicking sound (which is actually a typewriter in the scene) to flick between images and I used this sound to base the timing of the video, giving it quite a fast pace and building up atmosphere.

Edit 1

I tried putting a flicker effect over the video, to give the illusion of watching an old video.

However the flickering was a bit too intense, and a distraction from the content.

Edit 2

In this video you can see i tried how it looked without the flicker effect, and I tried to time the 'clicks' at the start with images/stills.

Edit 3

This was the working progress video I took to the group tutorial session - I tried to fade the contrast & brightness in an attempt to colour match the different clips as close as possible, but also still give it that old effect which I think suits the clothing and era I based the collection on.  I was worried that I has used the mirror effect too much, but general feedback from the group was that they liked it & didnt think it had been over used.
They also suggested trying to tweak & match up the scenes even closer where I was trying to mirror different films together on the same shot - this was what I had most difficulty with & spent hours trying to adjust things ever so slightly.  I should have kept the camera in the same position & changed outfits for each angle, rather than moving the camera for each outfit.  

Filming

Recruiting models proved to be unsuccessful, I had in mind 4 different models for the 4 outfits.  I had several people from my course who I had hoped would be able to help, but with the short deadline & other commitments outside of university getting a day at such short notice was proved very difficult.  I tried to contact a foundation course tutor in the hope of being able to use their students, but the response - due to technical reasons - was too late.  I really needed to get the filming done whilst I knew there was a short window of 'good' weather, and also allowing myself a week or so to edit the film & any opportunity for re-shooting.  Hiring models from outside of our course was going to be too expensive as I would have to pay zoo entrance for each of them, and unfortunately not an option.  I could not guarantee a place for them to get ready or store their belongings either.

In the end, knowing the clothes fitted, I could see no other option but to use myself as a model.  I hired the Canon 7D camera from the university, and taught my sister how to operate it.  I prepared everything as much as possible & did a few practice shots to get her used to filming using the equipment.

I had notes of what I wanted the footage to look like, and we went around the structure several times to plan each shot & mark out on the floor where the tripod would be etc.  I decided not to use any zoom features on the camera in the hope that all angles/positioning of the camera matched up as much as possible.  

Setting up the shots

Marking the tripod position

 

Ideally I would have kept the camera in each position and kept changing outfits, to ensure that the camera never moved & each shot lined up exactly.  However as I had to be sewn into some outfits, and the amount of time this would have taken, this was not an option - I had to move the camera for each outfit & try and realign it.  I had a total of 8 camera positions to film, 1 of which had to be cut as the light meant that I was always in shadow - trying to preserve the battery was also a major factor as there was nowhere near to charge it, so I did not have much opportunity to check the footage on sight.  

Creating my collection

Trying to create a collection of 1930s & bear inspired clothing was the next step.

I wanted to create a small collection of clothing, but finding clothing from the 1930s was rather difficult.  Clothing from this era is not readily available to buy & vintage stock is expensive and hard to come across when looking for something specific.

I looked into hiring from local theatre companies:
- The Criterion Theatre, Earlsdon, Coventry.  Having called & emailed several times, no-one replied or passed on the message so this was a dead end.
- The Priory Theatre, Kenilworth.  This company was very helpful, but did take a while to respond to my email, and unfortunately what they were offering was not suitable.  I could look at their wardrobe, but it was only open once a week & at the rate of £20 per costume, it was going to get quite expensive if I wanted several items.

Earlier in the year I worked on a project with the PDSA, using their vintage stock to style & create a collection for selling online.  I contacted the organiser from the project & asked if it would be possible to come and view their vintage stock in the hope of borrowing some items that would fit the theme.
At the warehouse, I found lots of fur coats & accessories (very 1930s & bear inspired!) which I borrowed, but unfortunately not the 1930s clothing I was hoping for  - day wear or evening wear.  There were a few possible items other than the coats which I borrowed with the hope I might be able to adapt them to the theme, but I did not use them in the end as I felt that they were not really suitable.

Clothing borrowed from Vintage stick at PDSA

I then started to look at dress patterns with the idea that I could make some clothing - I came across a dress pattern at home that seemed to fit the 1930s trademark of halterneck & backless floor length gown, and searched the internet for further patterns.

I came across several 'Vogue Vintage' patterns which were actual 1930s design.  I got them ordered on next day delivery, and went to purchase fabric the next day.

I was on a very tight turn around, I wanted to get the clothing sorted quickly so that I could find models and get filming - incase I needed to re-shoot anything, and also because I was dependant on the weather - as the Bear Ravine is very mossy, I needed a day where it had not rained previously to make the ground as safe as possible to walk on, and also a day where it was not actually raining - clothing and equipment being a major issue in the wet weather.

Making the outfits

Dress 1:

Dress 2:

 Dress 3:

Skirt: 

(I used the skirt section from the pattern of dress 3)

Blouse:

After completing my mini collection of 1930s clothing, to add the 'bear' influence I am going to team the items with the fur coats which I have borrowed from the PDSA, and also try and find chunky knitted or fur accessories such as gloves/leg warmers (as influenced by the Topshop Unique Collection Autumn/Winter 2011).

Ideas for filming

Knowing that I wanted to do a fashion inspired video, I thought I could use the Bear Ravine as a catwalk.

The Bear Ravine has a very theatre like presence - large curved terraces and a cantilevered platform.
The structure would make a fantastic runway for a collection of clothing.

I started looking into different unique catwalks:

Sonia Rykiel Autumn/Winter 2011

This was particularly interesting as the designer used Martin Boyce Neon Lights to line the catwalk.  We discussed Martin Boyce & this work in our first session about this project - the theme of Preserving/Riving - taking something & giving it a new purpose, a new lease of life.  Martin Boyce originally developed 'Concrete Autumn' from a picture his discovered of Jan and Joël Martel's cubist trees - he thought they represented “a perfect unity of architecture and nature.”  He has gone on to make his own version of these modernist sculptures, and developed the theme further ever since - They have become the defining point for his work ever since.  

Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi - Fall/Winter 2007

This collection was showcased on the Great Wall of China - this gave me huge inspiration to actually film the fashion shoot at the Bear Ravine itself, rather than using a studio & just bear/1930s inspired fashion.

McQ Autumn/Winter 2012/13

This fashion show was spectacular - using crisp autumn leaves on the runway, the last model followed a rope into the woods at the back of the catwalk - which then opened up into a forest, and as she arrived  to a cottage, it burst into disco lights & noise.

Topshop Unique Spring/Summer 2011

This collection was modelled at the space above waterloo station.  Another unique catwalk rather than using a studio or purpose built arena.

Chanel Fall/Winter 2012/13

A journey into the centre of the earth.  A collection modelled around large crystal-like pieces jutted from the ground.  The collection included the use of semi-precious stones, not just on the shoes, bags, clothing & accessories, but also the eyebrows of the models.

My ideas pitch to the group 12th October 2012

After pitching my ideas to the group, they seemed to think that my idea of filming 1930s/bear fashion on the Bear Ravine could work.  They suggested that I should try and mix the bear theme & 1930s theme together rather than focusing on just one theme.  

It was suggested that rather than just creating & filming a catwalk show, I should look at creating 'Fashion Vs Film' instead. 

I looked at a video: Nowness.com presents:  Sooyeon Lee by Matthew Donaldson, and then researched into other videos that were fashion related, but not simply catwalk shows.  I found some really interesting videos, and different ideas of how to edit my film.

Sooyeon Lee by Matthew Donaldson

This is an incredible video - Table tennis champion Sooyeon Lee stars in Matthew Donaldson's slow-motion homage to the sport.  Looks include pieces by Versace, Jil Sander, Christopher Kane and Christian Louboutin.  Clothing inspired by birds, taken right down into slow-motion, to capture and emphasise the movements of the fabrics and body parts.  I particularly like the use of slow-motion in editing this video.

 

"Iris" - An Exclusive Fashion Film

Another video by Nowness.com.  The editing in this video is fascinating - splitting the screen, overlapping footage and the twist effect - the editing is very repetitive, but I do not feel that it is over-the-top, it makes it a fascinating watch.  All or nothing!

Lanvin Fall 2010 Campaign Movie

This video has a very funky feel to it - from the music down to the editing - the mirror images & robotic feel to the cutting of the footage in time with the music

Mercedes-Benz.tv: Fashion meets Movie Berlin (Collection by Hien Li)

This video was particularly inspirational to my film shooting & editing- it has captured a sense of the different ideas mentioned in the above films, yet I do not feel that is obviously a fashion focused film.

The music plays a huge part in the pace of the video.  In the editing, there is the use of mirror imaging, kaleidoscope effect, repeating the models to multiply their presence, repeated scenes, flicking between outfits yet it seems as though the model is in the same position.

My Ideas

I was really interested in the history of the 1930s, and how these amazing structures, which most people don't realise the significance of, are just around the corner in Dudley. 

For one idea, I looked into other buildings in the local area which were built around the same time, and what has become of them - whether they are forgotten places, destroyed, still standing, restored.

The Old Hippodrome Theatre, Dudley - Built 1938.  

Not 100% sure whether the building is used as a bingo hall, or whether it is empty & awaiting a decision whether or not to be demolished by Dudley council.  

Baskerville House, Broad Street, Birmingham - Built 1938.  

A former civic building.  Grade II listed, it is now commercial office space.

Typhoo Tea Factory, Digbeth, Birmingham - Opened 1930s, inspired by Bauhaus.

Former Typhoo Tea Factory until closed in the late 1970s.  Sold in 2010, but unknown what the plans are for this sight - there were plans for the factory to be converted into 350 flats, but since the economic downturn this has not gone ahead. 

I was interested in this period of architectural history, however I was unsure how to turn this into an interesting video, and the research was difficult to make a real start.  

Brainstorm

The idea that interested me the most was turning this video brief into a fashion/textile related project.

I was interested in the time when the zoo opened - 1937, and the fashion from that time.

1930s Fashion

Book:  Vintage Fashion - collecting & wearing designer classics, foreword by Zandra Rhodes.  Carlton Books Limited 2006.  

A fantastic book giving an exciting look into the history of fashion, through out the twentieth century.  This was a real starting point for me to research into the clothes of the 1930s.

"Epitomised by the elongated draped gowns worn by the movie stars, the 1930s will for ever be remembered as the era of Hollywood glamour...clothes were cut to follow the lines of the body...shoulders were bared in the first halterneck and backless gowns, and the bias-cut dress clung to every curve."

Style icons:

Bette Davis

Katharine Hepburn

Designers:

- Coco Chanel 

The 1930s saw the launch of the iconic Chanel day suit - practical, fashionable versatile two-piece cocktail suits which allowed the wearer to go elegantly from early evening to late night soiree without having to change. Chanel pioneered the use of cotton & wool jersey in women's suiting.  

- Elsa Schiaparelli

Although not as well know, at the time Schiaparelli and Chanel were huge rivals.  Schiaparelli's innovations included the use of zips as fashionable elements, a backless evening gown with a compartment for stashing a flash & a fabric print composed of newspaper cuttings. 

Key Features in Clothing from the 1930s:

- Bold lines & patterns of the prevailing art deco style -graphic designs & lettering

- Skirts hang below the knee, sometimes slightly longer at the back

- Wedge-cut pleated skirts

- Waistlines on the natural waist

- Necklines lowered with scalloped edge/ ruffled collars/ frills down the front

- Belts and sashes wide, bold buttons

- Scooped back swimwear

- Backless & halterneck dresses - The back became the new erogenous zone

- Bias-cut gown which clung naturally to the body

- Fur was worn extensively - day and night - capes, coats, stoles, gloves

- Narrow suits worn with a hat & gloves

- Zips

Photograph of evening wear in 1935 -
'Vintage Fashion' book

Illustration of Daywear Fashions in the 1930s -
'Vintage Fashion' book

Book:  Fashion Sourcebooks - The 1930s,  John Peacock.  Thames and Hudson Ltd 1997

This was another useful book which gave me illustrations of clothing as it changed through the 1930s.

Bear Inspired Fashion

I thought that Bear inspired fashion would be an interesting take on the bear ravine.

This is quite a unique idea though, and not really many designers have ventured into this theme!  

These are some of the collections that I thought fitted into this theme:

Topshop Unique Collection - Autumn/Winter 2011

I thought these images looked ideal for a bear inspired fashion collection - Fur, chunky knits, wild hair

Chanel -Autumn/Winter 2010

Again a collection of Fur, chunky boots, & lots of layers which I thought could fit the bear theme - maybe more polar bear!  This collection was even displayed walking through & around 240 tonnes of imported iceberg.

Another unique idea to add animals to fashion